Inside Park Avenue Armory on Monday, Coach clinked a glass to New York City. As a monochrome-red Lil Nas X took his seat next to a preppy Ice Spice in the Upper East Side venue, the cosmopolitan line, governed by creative director Stuart Vevers, celebrated the brand’s quintessentially American fashion language.
Saluting Empire City, a distressed-knit dress opened the show with an emblematic big apple plastered on its chest. A slew of leather looks trailed, keeping with the collection’s hustling-and-bustling character. Double-breasted trench coats in varying shades of brown appeared before cropped button-up jackets and low-waisted skirts. Boots were consistent in all-black, while shoulder bags, in bright blue and pink, prescribed a youthful dosage of logomania to otherwise mature ensembles.
Denim offered a brief intermission from the line’s largely leather agenda. Skirts dipped to models’ ankles, with cuts down their backs for fluid movement, while jackets were ever-so-slightly cropped and lined with cozy fur. Ripped jeans were cut straight or flared, offering a casual bottom for heavier tops. In outerwear, coats went full shearling, resembling plush teddy bears in soft tan tones, and others glistened with silver and gold coatings on aged textiles.
Leather then had a revival, with patchwork coats letting slivers of black and brown form a mosaic down their entire constructions. Skirts adopted the jigsaw-like design, and the collection-favorite fabric arrived as short shorts, too. Here, Vevers let Coach’s signature bulky sneakers claim prominence.
Going full circle, additional distressed-knit dresses fronted illustrations of a T-Rex and Mickey Mouse, reminding onlookers of the brand’s playful ethos. Speaking of, bags shaped like lips, big apples, hearts and stars were similarly fun. Oversized coats were injected with a classic sparkle and made more dramatic when paired with larger-than-life totes. The finale, a glimmering black sequin dress, appeared ready for a well-earned after-party.
See Coach’s full FW23 collection in the gallery above.
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