Since assuming sole creative control of VETEMENTS a few seasons ago, Guram Gvasalia has proven that he can hold his own as a designer. For the brand’s new Spring/Summer 2024 collection, VETEMENTS did not hold a runway show this time around. However, the collection lookbook release is just as captivating due to the sheer elegance of disrupted and exaggerated couture.
Whether it be street-oriented garments or tailored ones fit for a gala, one of the brand’s signature style codes is oversized proportions. But the latest proves that Gvasalia was just warming up as the new direction of oversized proportionality is rather extreme, but captivatingly so. Floor-hugging overcoats, shearling coats, sharp blazers, multicolored tracksuits, jeans and more practically swallow the wearer, which poses the question: How can one move in them? But overt functionality is not the sole purpose as drama takes center stage.
“I wanted the collection to have a visual effect of AI-generate garments. However, we still live in the real world. I wanted to create physical objects that would look and feel like AI-generate units while exploring all the facets of what fashion is from the most casual to couture,” said Gvasalia. “On the contrary, in its core, the collection is actually anti-AI, as the quality and the craftsmanship involved can only be done by human hands and with a passion that no machine can have.”
Perhaps the most striking and elegant component of the collection is the introduction of VETEMENTS eveningwear. With an appetite for the bold and beautiful, highlight eveningwear pieces include full sequin mermaid dresses in red, silver and black, cacoon-like velvet dresses, a black sculptured bodice dresses with elaborate trains, a sequined elongated houndstooth plaid blazers and floor-length tweed coats with crystal and pearl detailing.
Gvasalia managed to successfully carve out another collection that moves through styles, without comprising his progressive vision. Irrefutably, the debut eveningwear looks were the cherry on top as VETEMENTS solidifies its place as a house committed to dramatic looks.
Take a look at VETEMENTS’ SS24 collection in the gallery above.
In other news, Bode pays tribute to her mother’s working-class background for SS24.
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